First meal

Street Food
路邊攤

A Sydney food blog by two travel nerds obsessed with travel food, hole-in-the-wall restaurants, and international supermarkets of mystery. Street Food is a (mostly) Asian food blog, a cheap eats guide, and a celebration of Sydney's great culinary underbelly.
一對喜歡旅行的悉尼吃貨，超級喜歡路邊小店和各國神秘的食物。“路邊攤”是個關于亞洲飲食，便宜食物指南和頌揚悉尼飲食缺陷的博客。

Our bellies do flip-flops as we rocket into Shanghai from the airport. And it's not because the train is doing over 300kmh (seriously). It's because we're in freaking China! China and it's five zillion year culinary history has directly influenced all the Asian cuisines we love so much. Even though we're a pair of skippy non-Asian Australians, we feel like we're coming home to the motherland.
當我們從機場那邊沖入上海時，我們的胃翻江倒海。這不是因為高鐵在以300kmh（說真的）的速度疾馳著，而是因為我們現(xiàn)在就在中國！！中國和她五千年的飲食文化直接影響了我們所喜歡的全部亞洲美食。即使我們只是一對啥都不知道的非亞裔澳大利亞人，我們?nèi)匀桓杏X我們回了老家。

We get off the train in Shanghai to discover that we can't escape Christmas, even in China. We're a bit lost and some random stranger sees us struggling with a map and helps us find our way to our hostel. What a nice bloke, and what a nice welcome to China. Chinese folks we know back in Sydney were convinced we would be mugged, extorted, poisoned and possibly eaten as we backpacked China. But within five minutes of the holiday we've already had the exact opposite experience, and continued to do so throughout out the trip. Folks were super nice and helpful and we always felt at ease. Though once Shawn was slightly molested on the bottom, unfortunately by a bloke, but that happens to him all over Asia. Nothing so exciting happens back at home.
我們從高鐵上下來之后發(fā)現(xiàn)即使在中國，我們還是逃不掉圣誕節(jié) 。我們有一點迷路了，一個路上的陌生人看見我們手足無措地看著地圖，他幫我們找到了去青年旅社的路。真是個好人，真是中國對我們友好的歡迎。我們在悉尼認識的中國人都堅信我們在中國背包旅行一定會被騷擾，敲詐，中毒甚至被吃掉。但是在我們假期開始的5分鐘內(nèi)，我們就已經(jīng)有了一個完全相反的體驗，在接下來的一路上這個感覺都一直伴隨著我們。中國人超級友好和樂于助人，我們總是感到很安心。即使有一次Shawn的屁股輕微的被人捏了，不幸的還是個男人捏的，但是他在亞洲總是遭遇這樣的事情。在澳大利亞從來沒有這樣刺激的經(jīng)歷。

We're superstitious about the first meal of the holiday: it sets the standard for the rest of the trip. We could have eaten at one of the dozen too-tidy looking primary coloured Japanese/Taiwanese/Hong Kong style chain joints as we left the subway. But we held out until we found this: northern style cumin lamb kebabs cooked on hot coals and served in fresh flat bread. This is the last thing we were expecting and the best thing to find as the temperature was dropping down towards freezing. We paid 15 yuan, less then $3 Aussie. This is going to be a good trip.
我們對于假期的第一餐是很迷信的：它給我們整個旅程的歡樂程度定調(diào)。我們可以在離開地鐵之后在那一堆色彩鮮明的日本／臺灣／香港主題連鎖店里挑一家吃 ，但是我們堅持著直到我們發(fā)現(xiàn)了這個：北方風格的用煤烤的茴香羊肉串夾現(xiàn)做的餅。這根本不在我們的預期之中，但這卻是這個幾乎零度的天氣之下最好的食物。我們付了15元，不到3澳元。這個旅程將會很愉快。

This setup is permanently affixed outside a Northern style halal restaurant. We guess it keeps the smoke out of the restaurant, saves space and catches extra takeway business.
這個攤位固定在一個北方風格清真餐館外。我們猜這個裝置排出餐館的煙，省空間還可以提供一個額外的外賣服務。

BBQ

We wander around a little more and find some street hawkers selling bbq skewers and noodles.
我們到處走了一下，發(fā)現(xiàn)了一些街邊小攤賣烤串和面條。

This simple noodle stir fry was devine, made by a one-dish master. Our thick egg noodles were mixed with egg, bean sprouts, chili, green veggies and a bit of salt.
這個簡單的炒面是神級的，一個大廚燒出來的。我們厚雞蛋面條加了雞蛋，豆芽，辣椒，蔬菜和一點點鹽。

We awake to find we're staying in pleasant neighbourhood with relatively calm, tree-lined streets. We were near the French Concession, on the Ji'an Temple side.
我們發(fā)現(xiàn)我們在一個令人愉快的地方醒來，清凈，路邊覆蓋著樹的街道。我們在法租界，靠靜安寺的那邊。

Breakfast

For breakfast we judiciously pick the first place we find, and it's a beauty.
對于早飯，我們決定選我們能找到的第一家店。真的英明的決定。

We figure this is a real Shanghai style joint, the trays of ready-to-go dishes remind us of the Shanghai joints back in Ashfield in Sydney. The restaurant is squeaky clean and served by a cheery army of aunties and uncles. They weren't sure about us the first visit but on the second visit we were greeted like long lost relatives.
我們估計這是一家真正上海風格的餐館，一盤盤的熟食讓我們想起在悉尼艾士非的上海小店。這家店超級干凈，一群開心的阿姨和叔叔們在這里工作。我們第一次來的時候他們對我們不是很熟悉，而當我們第二次走進來時，我們就像他們長期失散的親戚一樣的被歡迎了。

We want to transport ourselves back and dive into the bainmarie of love. Lonely Planet tells you never to eat pre-prepared food, which would mean missing out on the best stuff. The trick is to find it fresh, that's usually when it's crowded with locals.
我們想穿越回那家店并浸泡在充滿食物之愛的溫泉之中?！豆陋毿乔颉犯嬖V我們說千萬不要嘗試事先燒好的食物，這意味著我們就會錯過這個好地方了。訣竅是要找到新鮮的餐館，而這通常意味著當?shù)厝伺拈L龍的地方。

We could spend half our trip in here.
我們可以在這里度過一半的假期。

If any germs make it through the hygienically sealed chopsticks the fiery chili paste should kill them.
即使是有病菌殘留在這些密封的一次性筷子里，這超辣的辣椒醬也會殺死它們的。

Soup noodle

There's no finer breakfast than noodle soup, especially when there's a pork chop involved. The broth is dark and sweet. The noodles are perfect. The tops old auntie sitting next to Alison burps all cute and lady-like. If Brad and Angelina can adopt overseas kids can we adopt overseas old ladies?
沒有比湯面更好的早餐了，特別是當里面還有一塊豬排的時候。這個湯是深的，帶點甜味。面條簡直絕了。那個坐在 Alison旁邊的阿姨，很女孩子樣的打嗝，好可愛。如果Brad和Angelina可以領養(yǎng)外國小孩，我們可以領養(yǎng)這個阿姨嗎？

As we eat a production line appears out of nowhere behind us. A hundred or so lunchboxes are being made up. We see folks eating these everywhere.
在我們吃的時候一條生產(chǎn)線悄無聲息的在我們背后出現(xiàn)了。在制作上百個飯盒。我們看到到處都有人吃這樣的盒飯。

Delicious food

For breakfast the next day we pick from the bainmarie of love. Chopped tofu, pickled cabbage, slow stewed five spice pork, pork schnitzel and a soy egg.
第二天的早飯我們又沉浸在愛中了。切片豆腐，酸白菜，五香豬肉，豬排和一個鹵蛋。

Much the same selections only add an egg for a breakfasty touch. The stewed spare rib added a spare tyre.As we eat all restaurant activity suddenly ceases and all eyes are on the TV. Howls of laughter erupt as the 'Good Morning Shanghai' type show plays the 'ultimate dog tease' Youtube clip. Some things are universal.
這份基本相同，只是為了早餐的感覺加了一個雞蛋。一個大仔排給我的腰圍又增加了一圈。在我們吃飯的時候，突然所有的活動都停止了，所有人都在看電視。在“上海早晨”播放youtube“終極狗狗調(diào)戲法”的時候，一陣陣的笑聲響起。一些事情是全球通用的。

Roll-up

We hit street food gold.
我們找到了路邊小吃之王。

Google tells us the lady is making a Taiwanese pancake. A large freshly cooked savoury crepe with a splash of egg and (hoisin?) sauce and filled with a fried bread stick, herbs and luncheon meat sausage.
谷歌告訴我們這個婦女在做臺灣煎餅。一個很大的現(xiàn)做咸薄餅加一個雞蛋和海鮮醬，加上一個炸過的餅，香菜和午餐肉。

It's all rolled up into one big pile of starch, fat and carbs.
卷起來的一個淀粉、脂肪和碳水化合物的組合。

It's not art but my god it's delicious on a cold Shanghai morning. Sydneysiders can find these rolls at Red Charcoal BBQ in the Eating World Food Court.
這不是什么藝術品，但是天哪，在中國特一個上海清冷的早晨，好吃極了。悉尼人可以在食府美食苑的大堡礁燒烤找到這樣的煎餅。

Food street

We'd read that Shanghai is no good for walking, which is our next obsession after food. Shanghai is brilliant for walking, especially in late December when it's quite chilly but pleasant, as long as you're rugged up. The main threat is crossing the road. There's all manner of vehicles, from Mercs and Audis to scooters held together with sticky tape. A green man at a pedestrian crossing simply means it's time to play chicken. We much prefer the Vietnamese style of crossing the road - just walk slowly and the traffic flows around you.
我們讀到上海不適合散步，這是我們排在吃之后的第二大愛好。實際上，上海超級適合散步的，特別是在12月底的時候，當天氣有點微涼但還宜人，只要你包緊了。最主要的危險是過馬路。車開成什么樣的都有，從奔馳到奧迪到用膠帶綁的小摩托。在路口一個行走的小綠人告訴你現(xiàn)在可以沖了。我們更加喜歡越南過馬路的風格，只要慢慢的走，各種車輛會在你身邊慢慢過。

Random fun looking Shanghai eat street.
隨便照的有趣的上海餐館街。

Dog

This fine hound stopped chewing his bone to come and say hello, what a gent.
這個獵犬停下舔舐自己，過來跟我們打招呼，真是個紳士。

Chicken

We find an open air wet market on Taiwan Road, a few roads up parallel to Nanjing Rd, and far more fun than endless Gucci stores.
我們找到個臺灣路上的菜市場，在南京路平行過去幾條街，一個比只有看不見盡頭的古琦商店更加有趣的地方。

Man that bird looks so good but there's no room in the tum.
老兄，那只雞看上去超級好吃，可是我胃里已經(jīng)沒有空間了。

Potato

Smooth bakery operator.
祥和的烘烤店老板。

Crispy deep fried cake with a sweet filling, possibly sweet potato. Looks good but the plain cake was better.
脆脆的油炸餅帶甜甜的餡，可能是甜薯?？雌饋聿诲e但是普通的餅更好吃。

Dog or bear

Is that a bear or a dog? Alison stupidly tried to pat him and nearly lost an arm.
這是只熊還是狗？Alison愚蠢的想去摸摸它，差點被咬掉一只手臂。

Milk shop

Soy milk and bread stick shop.
豆?jié){和油條店。

Hole

Random hole in the wall joint.
隨機的街邊小店。

Chinese restaurant

A bit different to your Aussie style Chinese restaurant.
和一般澳大利亞風格的中國餐館有點不同。

Takeaway

Chinese takeaway. Man we wish we had a look in those pots.
中式外賣。老兄，我希望我們能瞧瞧里面裝了什么。

Wedding photo

Wedding photos taken on the Bund. She must have been freezing.
外灘上的婚禮照，她一定凍死了。

Shanghai

View of Shanghai from the 88th floor on some finance building, the Jin Mao Tower. Shanghai just goes on forever. Sydney is just a country town. It's freaky.
上海經(jīng)貿(mào)大廈88層的景色，上海無邊無際。悉尼就像個小鎮(zhèn)，真恐怖。

But not half as freaky down 88 floors down the middle of the building, only a sheet of glass between Shawn and a Luke Skywalker fall.
但是比起從88層樓的中間往下看，那點驚慌也不算什么了。只有一層玻璃在Shawn和自由墜落的天行者盧克（《星球大戰(zhàn)》的角色之一）之間。

Restaurant

One block from the high-falutin' commercial district we find this low-falutin' restaurant for lunch.
在離高檔商業(yè)區(qū)一個街道的地方，我們找到這家低檔的餐館吃午飯。

The joy of holidays - beer at lunch. Much of the Chinese beer we found was mid strength to light. The beer is light in density and is perfect for eating with. Notice the plastic cover on the table.. When we leave the boss lady simply pulls off a layer of plastic leaving a new fresh layer underneath.
度假的快樂所在：中午喝啤酒。我們找到的大部分中國啤酒味道都是中等偏淡的。這個啤酒很清淡，很適合吃飯時喝。注意桌子上的塑料布。當我們離開時，老板娘就會把它收了，露出下面新的一層塑料布。

Schezuan peppers

The staff speak not a word of English and we speak even less Chinese. We order by pointing at what other folks are eating and smiling like idiots. We get a huge bowl of soup packed with chili and Schezuan peppers.
服務生一句英文都不會說，我們更加不會中文。我們通過指別人在吃的菜加拼命傻笑來點菜。我們點了一大盆加滿了四川辣椒的東西。

The broth blew our heads off but the fish is divine, having soaked in the flavour of the broth but without getting too chili hot. We noticed other folks had removed a lot of the fiery ingredients from the soup and dumped them on a sideplate. The kind waitress lady did the same for us.
這湯快要了我們的命，但是魚肉非常好吃，在充滿風味的湯中浸泡但又不會太辣。我們注意到其他人把湯里的很多辣椒都撈出來了，放在側碟子里。服務生小姐也幫我們這么做了。

Garlic

Egg and garlic shoot stirfry, this was a simple blend of flavours that had some special flavour magic happening. It was the veggie dishes that really blew our minds in China. This would have cost around a dollar.
雞蛋炒蒜苗，這只是簡單一個組合但是確有種魔術般的味道。在中國，這里的蔬菜將我們征服了。這只要1澳元。

Our fellow diners and the boss lady wondering why the idiot tourist is taking a photo of them.
食客和老板娘都在想為什么這幾個傻游客要拍他們的照片。

Five star awesomeness.
五星級的水準。

Starwberry

Alison finds a strawberry lady on the street. Dig the old fashioned weights. The strawberries were incredible, as was much of the fruit we had in China.
Alison找到一個在街邊賣草莓的女士。用古老的秤。這里的草莓太好吃了，其他在中國吃的水果也是一樣。

Meat

Din dins time. We spy this fellow finely slicing meat out the front of a restaurant. We have to try this, whatever the hell it is.
晚餐時間。我們偷偷觀察這個男人在一家餐館的門前細細地切肉。我們一定要試試這家，不管它賣什么。

Hot pot

Downstairs is pretty quiet but we were shunted upstairs where it's party time.
樓下很安靜。但是我們被請到了喧鬧的樓上。

We order by using the point'n'pray method and receive a huge hotpot filled with big chunks of lamb on the bone, sliced meat, tofu and veggies. The broth was delicious and not spicy for a change, with flavours of star anise and pepper.
我們通過隨便指加祈禱的方式點菜，然后我們收到了一份超大的砂鍋里面有大塊的羊肉，肉片，豆腐和蔬菜。湯很好喝，不辣，有八角和香料的味道。

Somehow we ordered a bunch of extra meat, greens, tofu skins and a beer. We thought we made pigs of ourselves but the locals shamed us. Businessmen in suits, lovey-dovey couples on dates, and bunches of blokey blokes ate continuously from the time we entered to the time we left. We don't know where it all went.
不知為何我們還點了一堆的額外的肉、菜、豆腐皮和啤酒。我們覺得我們肯定吃成豬了但是當?shù)厝烁屛覀儫o地自容。穿著西裝的上班族，來約會的情侶，一堆年輕人從我們進來到我們離開都在不停的吃。我們都不知道那些食物都去哪了。

The hot pot was full of lovely big hunks of lamb on the bone. It took a good hour to work our way through it. There's nothing like a big protein hit to make one feel at home thousands of miles away.
砂鍋里面有很多的大塊羊肉?；撕瞄L的時間去啃它們。沒什么比一大塊的蛋白質(zhì)更讓你在千里之外感到輕松自在了。